Sibiu is a delightful old town with many parts dating back to the Middle Ages when it was one of the most important of the Saxon Siebenburgen (7 cities) and it still bears a strong resemblance to a southern German or Austrian town
The Lutheran (Evangelical) Cathedral built in 1520
Piata Mare (or Great Square as there is another, smaller one). First recorded as the site of the Corn Market it later became a place of public meetings and executions.
Lining the square is a harmonious and largely restored blend of 15-17th c houses. Many have roofs featuring curiously shaped windows, known as the "city's eyes". At first I'd assumed the slits were there so that people could peek out without being seen (rather like the Palace of Winds in Jaipur), but they are simply for ventilation in the roof spaces.
This is the Town Hall which also houses the Tourist Information Centre. It's a beautiful building and looks very Austrian to me. The woman working in there was a bit disappointed that we were only in Sibiu for the afternoon/evening as there was so much to see.
We decided to climb the Turnul Sfatului (Tower of the Council) as there is a 360° view from the top.
The entrance to the staircase was tiny. The steps started off as stone for about 40 or so and then became wooden, with handrails virtually nonexistent.
On the first level there was a model executioner, no other props apart from the bucket to catch the head, and no explanation as to why it was there. I asked Ian to pretend he was being despatched, but his acting skills didn't impress me.
So I took on the role, much more realistic and heart-wrenching don't you think?
After 141 steps we were 7 floors up and rewarded with a super view across the main square.
And turning 180°
This map shows how the town was originally laid out and you can clearly see the main square. Hermannstadt was its name in German whereas Sibiu comes from the river (R. Cibin) which runs to the south.
This was taken from the Bridge of Lies looking down on one of the several roads linking the upper and lower towns.
Unfortunately all the signage for the upcoming Jazz Festival rather obscures the bridge itself.
There are several legends concerning the name
- One involves merchants who were discussing business on the bridge and trying to swindle their clients.
- Another is that the bridge will collapse as soon as anyone tells a lie, while on it.
- The bridge, a favourite meeting point for young lovers, 'heard' too many passionate but transitory vows.
But despite all the legends, the current name of the bridge is due to a translation error: The bridge was initially called Liegenbrücke, German for lying bridge (ie. built without supporting pillars), which sounds very similar to Lügenbrücke, meaning "bridge of lies".
This is kürtőskalács or "Chimney Cake" made from sweet, yeast dough, of which a strip is spun and then wrapped around a truncated cone–shaped baking spit, and rolled in granulated sugar. It's then roasted over charcoal while basted with melted butter, until its surface cooks to a golden-brown colour. During the baking process the sugar stuck on it caramelises and forms a crisp, shiny crust said to resemble a chimney. The surface of the cake can then be topped with additional ingredients such as ground walnuts or powdered cinnamon. A bit too much of a sugar rush for us to try.
Rather cute book stall.
And definitely a distinctly German feel to the place.
I know these fountains are very common now but I love to watch the kids playing in them; these two were twins I think and their Dad had brought them to the square specially to enjoy the cool water on a hot September afternoon. We spent a good while watching them whilst enjoying a delicious cold beer.
The tower on the right is the one we just climbed
A lovely old street with beautiful buildings, totally ruined by the parked cars.
This is the Carpenters Tower, one of three 15th century towers still standing (there were originally 39 defence towers, 5 bulwarks, 4 gates and 5 artillery batteries) you could climb up and walk along but we'd had enough steps by now.
These two were a little scary.
A few random pictures as we wandered around.
Another old tower but unrestored this time. Our old guidebook said it was a maze of lovely old streets but sadly these are all rather spoilt now with parked cars.
Back to the hotel to offload the water and wine we'd picked up in a nearby supermarket and a hour's rest before heading out for dinner. We sat in the main square again and enjoyed a delicious bottle of wine and two tasty pizzas for a very reasonable £30.