Breakfast was a rather strange affair; a small counter of food and about 5 small tables plus a couple more outside (between the parked cars). There was a hot drinks machine which did everything from numerous coffee types to hot water and consequently there was always a rather long queue waiting to use it. The food was simple and replenished by two young ladies behind the counter who looked like they'd just got home from an evening out; they were immaculately dressed and made-up and wore latex gloves as a nod to hygiene standards but sadly nothing to tie back their very long black hair and when there was a lull in customers were quickly back outside smoking a fag (still gloved). Neither of them spoke any English so when the receptionist we'd seen yesterday arrived, similarly dressed, we asked her if there were any black tea bags around (as all we could find were fruit ones) and she muttered something and dashed off. She was gone for what seemed like an age and so I nipped back to our room and got one from my own supply. I'd just got back when she returned, clutching a box. She'd obviously been to the nearby supermarket and proudly offered me a box of Earl Grey - never my favourite but I didn't have the heart to tell her they weren't what I wanted. Actually Earl Grey and Tetley together makes a nice brew.
After yesterday's long drive we only had a 2 hour one today if we didn't stop, so Ian planned a route around visiting several fortified Saxon churches which are a speciality in the region.
The area between Sibiu, Sighișoara and Brașov (which we got to the day after) contained the bulk of Transylvania's Saxon population having settled there in the early 13th century due to its rich and fertile land. In the years following the Mongol attacks of 1241-42 the Saxon's designed these structures to withstand heavy, prolonged assault, shelter an entire village and have enough storage space to keep sufficient supplies. Unusually these fortifications were built by the villagers themselves with little or no assistance from the ruling classes, which resulted in them being rather plain and lacking in ornamentation. Many are in poor condition but others have been beautifully restored thanks to UNESCO and also to large amounts of funding from Saxons who over the years had returned to Germany for various reasons. In fact most of the people we spoke to in this area seemed to be German.
The first one we headed to was Valea Viilor
Our research had indicated that this was a hugely touristy area and that we'd be battling the crowds (particularly Germans visiting where their ancestors lived) wherever we went. On arrival at our first fortified church we were therefore amazed and delighted to be the only people around.
Sleeping accommodation on the first floor and storage below.
The church was very plain inside.
Love the heating system.
The sign on the gate said "do not ring the bells"
The tower was massive but we had the opportunity to climb it so why not, how hard can it be?
The answer is UNBELIEVABLY HARD! It started off as a stone staircase but quickly became a series of wooden ladders, some with handrails but most without. Between the various sections there were small areas to put your feet but often the wood bends and creaks alarmingly. On one particular section we literally had to inch our way across a 6" beam to reach the next ladder. There were also several places where you could easily knock yourself out on a low beam. I often complain that Health & Safety in the UK is too stringent but here I would have been glad of just a tiny bit, especially as no-one even knew or cared that we were up the tower.
Up with the bells and although I was sorely tempted, I resisted the urge.
You can see here what I mean about the houses all lining the one road.
As I was taking this photo for some reason all I could think about was Dad's Army - I could imagine Corporal Jones (Clive Dunn) inching his way along the top and grimacing all the while as the roof pitch made itself known.
Just to show how high up we were.
Going down was even worse but we managed it slowly and with lots of "watch out for your feet" and "mind your head" Ian was really proud that he managed it and so he should be.
Back on almost terra firma.
There was a small museum but most of the info was in German.
It's still very much a farming community all around and whilst I always try to ask before I take a photo, I'm sometimes not quite sure if the slight head shake means it's a Yes or a No!
I must say the whole place was utterly fascinating. I had no idea what to expect and you could really imagine an entire village living within the fortified church walls during a siege.